Feb 9 from Kochi in the south of India, a whole week since the last blog. Written this all once before but the i-pad crashed so trying again from an internet cafe.
Feb 2, Tiger safari. Saw a tiger at about 1/4 km for about 2 seconds after running back and forth in jeeps for 2 hours!
Feb 3, Khajuharo, home of the erotic temple statues built 950 to 1050 BCE. Lonely Planet says "The Chandelans were usually at war when not inventing new sexual positions." The soaring temples are truly beautiful, and still exist because the image-destroying Islamic Moghuls did not know they were there. We'll share the really exotic photos privately. Our tour guide says that sex is an essential part of life, so it is normal that it be properly recognized. It is, here.
Feb 4, Varanasi, holiest of Hindu cities and the oldest continuously inhabited city on Earth, from at least 1200 BCE and maybe 8000 BCE. If you are cremated in Varanasi you immediately get released from the reincarnation cycle (you reach moksha), so many Hindus go to Varanasi to die. Our first sight of the holy Ganges River at dusk will never be forgotton. Thousands of people amassed on the ghats (steps leading to the water) with the cremation ghat dotted with burning and smoldering pyres and the occasional cow. Bells ringing, chanting, flowers for sale, enormous piles of logs for cremating. We (and many others) took a boat cruise past the ghats as night thickened, as floating lamps carrying wishes blinked past. Stopped for a half hour for a Hindu ceremony: more bells, chanting and incense. Then sipped drinks in the Blue Lassi on a narrow lane where, every few minutes, chanting heralded the passing of another litter carrying a dead person draped in orange and gold, accompanied by men only. Our guide says that women are too emotional and sometimes throw themselves oto the flames. At the water, the body is immersed totally in the Ganges before waiting its turn for a pyre.
Feb 5, another boat cruise past the ghats as the sun rose, pilgrims gathered at the water's edge for the "holy dip", and more wish-candles floating slowly away from us. Afternoon, visited Sarnath where Buddha (563-483 BCE) gave his first sermon. The temple ruins were built by Ashoka who converted to Buddhism about 260 BCE.
Feb 6, back to Delhi, with half the group flying home Feb 7. This has been such a wonderful group experience, with each person bringing their individual gifts to make this such a rewarding trip: the whole was much greater than the parts! Thank you all, and to Dushyants, our ever-sensitive, knowing and patient guide.
Feb 7, Alan, Linda, Kathleen and Graham to Kochi in the south. It is like another country: much wealthier, 100% literacy, road traffic approaching the sane, almost no cows on the road and 30-degree weather. Much of this (not the temperature) apparently because of its democratically elected communist government which has been in power most of the time since 1957. Fort Kochin where we are staying is a hippy paradise: lots of homestay accommodation, little restaurants, boutiques advertising enviro-friendly products. Kerala was "discovered" by Vasco da Gama in 1498, leading the way for European spice traders. This is apparent in the wide diversity of religions here including Christian.
Feb 9. So far we've spent most of our time decompressing from 3 weeks in the north, but have seen the cantilevered "Chinese" nets that still operate daily to bring in the occasional 10-inch fish. Plans are for traditional dance (Kathakali) tonight, part of an 8-day church festival (including an elephant parade) tomorrow, and maybe a backwater cruise through the inlet forest near here. However, today is Graham's turn to be sick, so we'll see.
Life continues to be full. See you in a week!
Feb 2, Tiger safari. Saw a tiger at about 1/4 km for about 2 seconds after running back and forth in jeeps for 2 hours!
Feb 3, Khajuharo, home of the erotic temple statues built 950 to 1050 BCE. Lonely Planet says "The Chandelans were usually at war when not inventing new sexual positions." The soaring temples are truly beautiful, and still exist because the image-destroying Islamic Moghuls did not know they were there. We'll share the really exotic photos privately. Our tour guide says that sex is an essential part of life, so it is normal that it be properly recognized. It is, here.
Feb 4, Varanasi, holiest of Hindu cities and the oldest continuously inhabited city on Earth, from at least 1200 BCE and maybe 8000 BCE. If you are cremated in Varanasi you immediately get released from the reincarnation cycle (you reach moksha), so many Hindus go to Varanasi to die. Our first sight of the holy Ganges River at dusk will never be forgotton. Thousands of people amassed on the ghats (steps leading to the water) with the cremation ghat dotted with burning and smoldering pyres and the occasional cow. Bells ringing, chanting, flowers for sale, enormous piles of logs for cremating. We (and many others) took a boat cruise past the ghats as night thickened, as floating lamps carrying wishes blinked past. Stopped for a half hour for a Hindu ceremony: more bells, chanting and incense. Then sipped drinks in the Blue Lassi on a narrow lane where, every few minutes, chanting heralded the passing of another litter carrying a dead person draped in orange and gold, accompanied by men only. Our guide says that women are too emotional and sometimes throw themselves oto the flames. At the water, the body is immersed totally in the Ganges before waiting its turn for a pyre.
Feb 5, another boat cruise past the ghats as the sun rose, pilgrims gathered at the water's edge for the "holy dip", and more wish-candles floating slowly away from us. Afternoon, visited Sarnath where Buddha (563-483 BCE) gave his first sermon. The temple ruins were built by Ashoka who converted to Buddhism about 260 BCE.
Feb 6, back to Delhi, with half the group flying home Feb 7. This has been such a wonderful group experience, with each person bringing their individual gifts to make this such a rewarding trip: the whole was much greater than the parts! Thank you all, and to Dushyants, our ever-sensitive, knowing and patient guide.
Feb 7, Alan, Linda, Kathleen and Graham to Kochi in the south. It is like another country: much wealthier, 100% literacy, road traffic approaching the sane, almost no cows on the road and 30-degree weather. Much of this (not the temperature) apparently because of its democratically elected communist government which has been in power most of the time since 1957. Fort Kochin where we are staying is a hippy paradise: lots of homestay accommodation, little restaurants, boutiques advertising enviro-friendly products. Kerala was "discovered" by Vasco da Gama in 1498, leading the way for European spice traders. This is apparent in the wide diversity of religions here including Christian.
Feb 9. So far we've spent most of our time decompressing from 3 weeks in the north, but have seen the cantilevered "Chinese" nets that still operate daily to bring in the occasional 10-inch fish. Plans are for traditional dance (Kathakali) tonight, part of an 8-day church festival (including an elephant parade) tomorrow, and maybe a backwater cruise through the inlet forest near here. However, today is Graham's turn to be sick, so we'll see.
Life continues to be full. See you in a week!
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| Khadjuraho |
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| Khadjuraho spire |
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| Khadjuraho romance |
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| Varanasi cremation ghat |
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| Sheila launching a wish-candle |
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| Hindu ceremony at the ghats |
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| Lane near the Blue Lassi, Varanasi |
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| Sarnath ruins, Buddha's firstsermon |
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| Sarnath ruins |
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| Our usual transportation |
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| Sunrise on the Ganges |
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| Taking the holy dip |
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| Our wish candles |
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| Saying goodbye, Delhi airport |
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| Fort Kochi, Walton's homestay |
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| Chinese nets, Kochi |
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| Canoe fisherman, Kochi |
Well, Al, these were worth the wait. That one of the wish candles going off over the orange water looks like something you will want on your wall. And the one of Sheila launching her candle is very touching. I am just there on the street with the dog and the cow. Thanks for posting. Have a good rest, all of you, and I hope Graham gets better fast. We miss you but all is well.
ReplyDeleteLove,
Margaret